Salt Marsh Retreat Rates and Hydrodynamic Data for the Great Marsh in Massachusetts, which comprises Plum Island Sound and Essex Bay, from 08-25-2015 to 06-24-2022 (NCEI Accession 0276236)
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title: Salt Marsh Retreat Rates and Hydrodynamic Data for the Great Marsh in Massachusetts, which comprises Plum Island Sound and Essex Bay, from 08-25-2015 to 06-24-2022 (NCEI Accession 0276236)
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abstract: The dataset provides measured salt marsh shoreline retreat rates and estimated hydrodynamic data for twelve sites in the Great Marsh system in Massachusetts, which comprises Plum Island Sound and Essex Bay. Shoreline retreat rates were measured using repeat RTK-GPS shoreline surveys from 2015 to 2020 and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). Estimated hydrodynamic data for the twelve sites were derived from 64 Simulating Nearshore Waves (SWAN) simulations and a calibrated Delft3D hydrodynamic model. The data were generated for a study examining the relationship between wave power and salt marsh retreat.
purpose: These data were collected to support the study of marsh edge erosion in the Great Marsh in Massachusetts and its relationship to hydrodynamics and other processes.
credit: Related Funding Agency: National Science Foundation; Directorate for Geosciences
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beginPosition: 2015-08-25
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description: Parameter or Variable: Retreat Rate (measured); Units: meters per year; Observation Category: in situ; Sampling Instrument: RTK-GPS; Sampling and Analyzing Method: At each site, the marsh edge was surveyed using the RTK-GPS covering approximately 70 meters of shoreline. Each site was surveyed at least three times, in the summer of 2015, in 2016, and either 2019 or 2020. The RTK-GPS points were processed and corrected using the NOAA Online Positioning User Service (OPUS), and retreat rates were calculated using the linear regression rate from the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), a software add-in for Esri ArcGIS desktop which calculates rate-of-change statistics from multiple historic shoreline positions. Retreat rate uncertainty values were calculated using DSAS using the built-in uncertainty calculator..
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description: Parameter or Variable: Retreat Rate Uncertainty (calculated); Units: meters per year; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Retreat rate uncertainty values were calculated using DSAS using the built-in uncertainty calculator..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (All Wind Directions): (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power, represented as a frequency-weighted mean over a stationary SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) run, over 16 wind directions (N, NNE, NE, ENE, E, ESE, SE, SSE, S, SSW, SW, WSW, W, WNW, NW, NNW). Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (N Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the North (N) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (NNE Wind Direction): (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the North-Northeast (NNE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (NE Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the Northeast (NE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (ENE Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the East-Northeast (ENE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (E Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: attowatt; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the East (E) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (ESE Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the East-Southeast (ESE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (SE Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the Southeast (SE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (SSE Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the South-Southeast (SSE) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (S Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the South (S) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (SSW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the South-Southwest (SSW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (SW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the Southwest (SW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (WSW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the West-Southwest (WSW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (W Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the West (W) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (WNW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the West-Northwest (WNW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (NW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the Northwest (NW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Wave Power (NNW Wind Direction) (calculated); Units: Watts per meter; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN); Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated wave power from waves generated by winds coming from the North-Northwest (NNW) direction. Units are watts per meter (W/m). Significant wave heights impacting the Great Marsh study sites were estimated using Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). SWAN is a numerical wave model that provides estimates of wave parameters in coastal and estuarine areas from given bottom and wind conditions. For this study’s model, wind conditions were derived from the NOAA data buoy station IOSN3 in Isle of Shoals, New Hampshire, based on the 1996-2020 data record. A 20 m x 20 m bathymetric grid for the study region was created by combining NOAA hydrographic survey data (from NOAA NCEI Bathymetric Data Viewer), 2013-2014 USGS lidar data, and extensive single-beam sonar data collected in the field. To ensure all the sites of interest were exposed to waves in the simulation, the datum of the bathymetric grid was set to MHHW, or 1.47 m above MSL in this region. SWAN was run in stationary mode for 16 different wind directions and for 4 different wind speed bins: 5-10 m/s, 10-15 m/s, 15-20 m/s, and winds faster than 20 m/s, resulting in 64 simulations. Wave energy (in J/m2) was calculated from the significant wave heights computed by SWAN using the following formula, E=1/8 ρgH_sig^2, where E is wave energy, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and H_sig is the significant wave height. Wave power (in W/m), also called wave energy flux or wave power density, was calculated using the following formula, P_w= Ec_g, where P_w is the wave power or energy flux, and c_g is the group velocity, calculated through the expression c_g= c/2 [1+ 2kD/(sinh(2kD))], where c is the celerity, k is the angular wave number, and D is the water depth. Weighted means of wave height, energy, and power were calculated at each site using the frequency of wind speed and direction conditions determined using NOAA buoy data..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Flood Current Velocity (calculated); Units: Meters per second; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Delft3D; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Ebb and flood current velocities were extracted from hydrodynamic models previously developed and calibrated for tidal harmonics using field observations [1,2]. Using the calibration simulations, which covered a typical 30-day simulation, peak flood, and ebb velocities were extracted during spring tide conditions. Velocities were extracted at the nearest “wet” model grid cell adjacent to the sites where retreat rates were measured, to eliminate wet-dry perturbations from influencing tidal currents. Peak ebb and peak flood velocities were then averaged over the three largest tidal excursions during spring tide conditions and were subsequently used in correlations with marsh retreat data. [1] FitzGerald, D.M., Hughes, Z. J., Georgiou, I. Y., Black, S., and Novak, A. 2020. Enhanced, climate driven sedimentation on salt marshes. Geophys. Res. Lett., 46. https://doi.org/10.1029/2019GL086737 [2] FitzGerald, D.M., et al. (2022). Following the Sand Grains. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 10(5), 631. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10050631.
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Ebb Current Velocity (calculated); Units: Meters per second; Observation Category: model output; Sampling Instrument: Delft3D; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Ebb and flood current velocities were extracted from hydrodynamic models previously developed and calibrated for tidal harmonics using field observations [1,2]. Using the calibration simulations, which covered a typical 30-day simulation, peak flood, and ebb velocities were extracted during spring tide conditions. Velocities were extracted at the nearest “wet” model grid cell adjacent to the sites where retreat rates were measured, to eliminate wet-dry perturbations from influencing tidal currents. Peak ebb and peak flood velocities were then averaged over the three largest tidal excursions during spring tide conditions and were subsequently used in correlations with marsh retreat data. [1] FitzGerald, D.M., Hughes, Z. J., Georgiou, I. Y., Black, S., and Novak, A. 2020. Enhanced, climate driven sedimentation on salt marshes. Geophys. Res. Lett., 46. https://doi.org/10.1029/2019GL086737 [2] FitzGerald, D.M., et al. (2022). Following the Sand Grains. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 10(5), 631. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10050631.
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Channel Curvature (measured); Units: 1 / kilometer; Observation Category: satellite; Sampling Instrument: Satellite Imagery; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Estimated measure of tidal channel curvature adjacent to the study sites. Units are 1/kilometer (1/km).Channel curvature was calculated as the reciprocal of radius of curvature, which is measured as the radius of an arc the best fits the curve. Radius of curvature for tidal channels adjacent to each site was measured by approximating channel curves based on satellite imagery and drawing circle arcs. A straight channel has an infinite radius of curvature, and thus a channel curvature of 0. Channels that are concave at the study site have a positive curvature value while channels that are convex have a negative curvature value..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Site (measured); Units: none; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Name of station/site of interest..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Longitude (measured); Units: Decimal Degrees; Observation Category: in situ; Sampling Instrument: GPS; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Longitude of site of interest, measured using Garmin GPS..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Latitude (measured); Units: Decimal Degrees; Observation Category: in situ; Sampling Instrument: GPS; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Latitude of site of interest, measured using Garmin GPS..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Number of Transects Used (calculated); Units: none; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Number of cross-shoreline transects used in Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) to calculate the retreat rates of the surveyed shorelines at each site..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Length of Shoreline Surveyed (measured); Units: meter; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: RTK-GPS; Sampling and Analyzing Method: The length of the shoreline surveyed at each site using RTK-GPS..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Date of Shoreline Survey 1 (measured); Units: nanonewton; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Date of the first RTK-GPS shoreline survey of the site..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Date of Shoreline Survey 2 (measured); Units: none; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Date of the second RTK-GPS shoreline survey of the site..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Date of Shoreline Survey 3 (measured); Units: none; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Date of the third RTK-GPS shoreline survey of the site..
processStep: (LE_ProcessStep)
description: Parameter or Variable: Date of Shoreline Survey 4 (measured); Units: nanonewton; Observation Category: other; Sampling Instrument: none; Sampling and Analyzing Method: Date of the fourth (if applicable) RTK-GPS shoreline survey of the site. If no fourth survey was completed at the site, data show "n/a".
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metadataMaintenance: (MD_MaintenanceInformation)
maintenanceAndUpdateFrequency: (MD_MaintenanceFrequencyCode) asNeeded
maintenanceNote: Metadata are developed, maintained and distributed by NCEI. Updates are performed as needed to maintain currentness.
contact: (CI_ResponsibleParty)
organisationName: NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information
role: (CI_RoleCode) custodian
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acquisitionInformation: (MI_AcquisitionInformation)
instrument: (MI_Instrument)
identifier: (MD_Identifier)
code: GPS
type: GPS
description: Global Positioning System receiver satellite-based instrument used for geo-location, positioning and navigation
instrument: (MI_Instrument)
identifier: (MD_Identifier)
code: satellite sensor - general
type: satellite sensor - general
description: A generic class used for unknown satellite sensor type, or datasets consisting of blended, merged, or otherwise mixed observations from multiple satellite sensor types
